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Yai shimmers and glimmers in a body-skimming lace piece and shoes from Lagerfeld’s spring 1996 haute couture collection for Chanel. To mark the Black Sabbath 55nd anniversary 1968 2023 thank you for the memories signatures shirt What’s more,I will buy this 1990 FIFA World Cup, held in Italy, Lagerfeld paid tribute to Fendi’s birthplace with a special collection inspired by the distant past. Yai wears a Fendi dress.My first day at the Chanel studio beginning work on the fall 1997 ready-to-wear collection was pretty daunting. Everybody had their role in the court—even Madame Pouzieux, who created the braids for the tailleurs on her horse farm far from Paris. There was a girl who just worked on the buttons, and another on the season’s camellia. Victoire de Castellane designed the jewelry with Karl, and Gilles Dufour was head of the studio. Everything was ritualistic, elegant, and, to my eye, formal—I didn’t really know precisely what I was supposed to do. Instinctively, I just did what I would have done for John—sending Karl a 1920s wedding dress, for example, or making him a scrapbook of images that might inspire him. Karl never told me to stop, but gradually I worked out that Karl already had all his ideas in his head. My role, as he eventually put it, was to be “an outside pair of eyes” that, by virtue of not looking closely at a collection until the weeks before a show, could therefore come in and see whether the dynamic, balance, and proportion really sang.It wasn’t easy to adapt to Karl’s unspoken expectations. I came from a place where your outside didn’t matter as much as your inside—where self-consciousness can cut across an exchange of ideas. With John, we would all lean across a table of sketches and photographs, swatches, or a twisted garland of lily of the valley. At Chanel, I crossed all sorts of lines when I got up to demonstrate how a jacket might be worn differently—such as across my body or turned upside down. I will never forget the look of horror on the première’s face. (Nobody but the premières or their secondes were allowed to touch the clothes that were being worked on the fitting model.) But I think that’s exactly why Karl wanted me there: He wanted to ease up on the ritual and free up creative possibilities.
Once, when the Black Sabbath 55nd anniversary 1968 2023 thank you for the memories signatures shirt What’s more,I will buy this room was almost airless, heavily freighted with No. 5 and with a row of Chanel tailleurs alongside him at his long table and another row of onlookers standing behind, he got up from his chair and walked out of the door marked “Mademoiselle,” calling me to follow him. “I want you to go back inside and tell everyone who is not directly involved with the creation of this collection to leave immediately…or I will,” he hissed. I walked back in and faced what seemed to me a firing squad. How could I ask anyone to leave? I was the newcomer, the outsider. But I did as he instructed, in my best French—and, to my surprise, the room cleared.GRAPHIC CONTENT Choi is statuesque in the trompe l’oeil Crétoise dress from Chloé’s spring 1984 collection—one laden with clever riffs on Greek and Italian antiquity. (Once upon a time, as she flitted down the runway, Inès de la Fressange topped off the look with a silver-gilt laurel leaf crown.)
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