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But to reduce Westwood to a human anarchy symbol is to do her a disservice. Behind that punk edifice was a woman who knew enough about tradition to shatter it. While questioning empire, Westwood used some of its hallmarks as her building blocks; mixed in with the Cat woke af tall shirt moreover I will buy this rebellion, there was reverence. By the ’80s, her references included Old Master paintings, corsets, and crinolines (which she transformed into the notorious “mini-crini”). When I met Westwood in person for the first time, an experience akin to seeing a historical figure pop out of a museum-worthy frame, she immediately identified the dress I was wearing as being inspired by a Frans Hals painting. I soon found that she was more interested in talking about Gainsborough than gossiping about fashion, and that she encouraged design students to copy classic works of art as part of their training.
There’s a reason her vintage pieces still go viral, finding fans in Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa, and FKA Twigs. Westwood’s work had almost nothing to do with whatever current trends were crowding the Cat woke af tall shirt moreover I will buy this runway, but rather with her own personal obsessions. She was deep in Victorian and Regency fashion while others were pushing bandage dresses. Her collections could be inspired by pirates, witches, dandies, or the heroines of Watteau paintings. She found ways to make even the staidest of British standbys—tartan, Harris tweed, and Sloane Ranger garb—look subversive. Westwood’s women sported cleavage-spilling, cherubim-flecked corsets or teetered on chopines, but they always looked completely in control. Her supermodel moments were legendary: Carla Bruni went L’Origine du Monde mode in a fur G-string (Westwood would later renounce fur). Kate Moss ate ice cream topless in a tricorn hat. Linda Evangelista swanned around in an 18th-century-style green gown. Naomi Campbell toppled from her sky-high heels, only managing to become more legendary in the process.
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