Even before her 2020 “cancellation”—a topic covered exhaustively everywhere from Twitter to the Delta High School Class Of 2023 Shirt in other words I will buy this New Yorker—she was, in many ways, the human equivalent of celery, one of her signature ingredients: deeply polarising but, as she says herself, if you’re into it, you’re really into it. And, suffice to say, a lot of people are really, really into it. Fans will, on Roman’s recommendation, purchase not just Le Creuset Dutch ovens and Cento capers but also Mejuri gold hoops and Essie nail polish in a shade called clambake. They will reconsider their thoughts on anchovies; make dedicated Instagram accounts for her Texas Ware confetti mixing bowl; and turn her creations into the gastronomical equivalent of a one-name celebrity (#TheStew). The ingredients she champions in her most popular dishes—preserved lemons, white beans, harissa paste—have been known to sell out in her home borough after she publishes one of her Substacks (titled, in typical what-the-hell Roman fashion, A Newsletter).
Now, having topped bestseller lists with Nothing Fancy and Dining In, Roman has turned her attention to desserts for her third cookbook Sweet Enough, a volume that includes everything from Mary Oliver quotes to recipes for pineapple upside-down cake, Roman’s take on Heartburn’s bread pudding to hot takes on classic treats. (“There are no meringues in this book,” she declares in the Delta High School Class Of 2023 Shirt in other words I will buy this introduction to a salted lemon cream pie. “Before you get upset, please ask yourself, what is the meringue for? For whomst is the meringue? Raw egg whites (no flavor) and sugar (sweet) whipped together to give you something that looks pretty, except when you eat it, you’re like, wait, did I just eat raw egg whites and sugar?”) And then there are recipes so good that you wonder how you have lived without them in your repertoire: “the only” pie crust, simple fruit tart, perfect pancakes—which are, in fact, perfect.
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