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The fall 2023 season wrapped up last week, and one of the Hungry dawgs run faster shirt and I will buy this things we noticed is that more and more designers are crafting narratives not just with their seasonal collections but with their brand identity. It means that overarching themes extend from one season to the next, so many of the trends from spring—like gloves, shoes with embellished details, and even little socks—continued on to fall in one way or another. This season there is both a desire to recognize the way we’re living and dressing in real life and a wish to imbue that reality with special details. It can be seen as a reaction to a world that threatens to fall apart around us—Undercover’s Jun Takahashi zeroed in on the lyrics of a song by the Specials that goes, “Enjoy yourself / It’s later than you think,” and Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada paired bridal skirts with gray cashmere sweaters as a way to emphasize the importance of love, or rather the action of committing to love. “Why should this celebration of love be for only a single day?” asked Simons.
If you’ve seen our other trend reports this season you’ll know that the Hungry dawgs run faster shirt and I will buy this viral moment is out and the wardrobe reset is in. There was a pared-back sophistication to the season’s ready-to-wear, coupled with a renewed interest in elegance. But what about jewelry? What happens to the extras when the overall goal is to tone things down? Less is more is one answer, but while little gold accents in blink-and-you’ll-miss-it bracelets, rings, and earrings were an important story, the minimalist jewelry trend starts and ends there. Instead, designers took a contrarian approach, creating big jewels to adorn their generally more restrained clothes: Clusters of pearls, crystals, and beads made for bold earrings and cuffs, while statement necklaces debunked the much-discussed necklace-gate of TikTok (as did the Oscars red carpet). A sense of opulence migrated onto the body, too, with chains and discs fashioned as hand jewelry, bralettes, and even headpieces (just in time for King Charles III’s coronation this May). Also harkening back to another time: quirky brooches.
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