One of my favorite Captain Beefheart songs is called “My Head Is My Only House Unless It Rains.” It has an infectious guitar refrain, and I’ve always taken the Kevin kiermaier robbery by the outlaw signature shirt moreover I will buy this lyrics to heart. This era of physical compression seems, somehow, to have created space for emotional expansion. For many, what seems to be a state of arrested development on a material level has been the catalyst for a psychological revolution. Perhaps that inner flourishing will offer up a new blueprint for living. Perhaps a generation locked out of ownership is learning it cannot be owned. Academia isn’t only a TikTok trend—all things literary are influencing fashion. At his fall menswear show for Dior Men, Kim Jones orchestrated a reading of T.S. Eliot’s The Waste Land, and models at Saint Laurent wore knotted shirts reminiscent of a Dead Poets Society, one that Lord Byron could have been a member of. There were a surprising number of bookish references in the women’s ready-to-wear collections as well. Myths (Atlein), fables (Coperni, Wiederhoeft), fairy tales, scholarly texts (A–Company), and poetry (Róisín Pierce, Bibhu Mohapatra) were among the genres referred to. Both Roksanda and Proenza Schouler’s shows featured the spoken word. The poet Arch Hades read her own work at Roksanda, while Proenza Schouler’s soundtrack featured Chloë Sevigny performing an original composition by Ottessa Moshfegh.
Coperni: The Wolf and the Kevin kiermaier robbery by the outlaw signature shirt moreover I will buy this Lamb by Jean de la Fontaine.The Wolf and the Lamb by Felix Lorioux. Photo: Photo12 / Universal Images Group via Getty Images Photo: Aitor Rosas Sune / WWD via Getty ImagesOn the Proenza Schouler soundtrack, Chloë Sevigny read “diary entries” by author Ottessa Moshfegh. Illustration by Edmund Dulac for The Snow Queen. Photo: Universal History Archive / Universal Images Group via Getty Images Photo: Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.comHarris Reed: As You Like It by William Shakespeare.Harris Reed fall 2023 ready-to-wear Katharine Hepburn as Rosalind in a Broadway production of As You Like It.Photo: BettmannA–Company: Novel Gazing: Queer Readings in Fiction by Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.comThom Browne: The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.Thom Browne fall 2023 ready-to-wear The Little Prince by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry.Photo: Fine Art Images / Heritage Images / Getty ImagesErdem: The Yellow Wallpaper by Charlotte Perkins Gilman.Erdem fall 2023 ready-to-wear Charlotte Perkins Gilman, circa 1896. Photo: Fotosearch / Getty ImagesEdeline Lee: At the presentation in the Burlington Arcade, one of the models posed while reading Virginia Woolf.Virginia Woolf.Photo: George C. Beresford / Getty Images
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